Ottolenghi Simple

July 16, 2018
As Ottolenghi lightheartedly points out, he is often teased for requiring a surfeit of exotic ingredients in his bestselling cookbooks, which include Nopi and Jerusalem. This collection is meant to remedy that with “simple” dishes, though that simplicity is hazily defined, as many recipes call for a long list of ingredients. In a gimmicky touch, each of the letters in simple has been assigned a meaning (L is for lazy, E for “easier than you think”), and recipes are tagged accordingly. But these categories are coy: dishes tagged with a P, for example, can be made with what readers are presumed to have on hand in the pantry, which in this case includes urfa chile flakes and black garlic. This book may not be as challenging as Ottolenghi’s previous collections, but a side dish of harissa chickpeas with flaked cod calls for 13 ingredients, and baked mint rice with pomegranate and olive salsa has 14 ingredients. That said, the chef’s imagination shines in items like a cakey beet and goat cheese bread. Comfort food with an international twist rules the day: highlights include baked potatoes and soft-boiled eggs with Italian tonnato sauce, and lamb siniyah, a shepherd’s pie with a crust of tahini rather than mashed potatoes. Desserts include a mixture of crushed graham crackers, melted chocolate, pistachios, and rum-soaked raisins refrigerated until set, and a no-churn raspberry ice cream. Claims to simplicity aside, this is yet another appealing cookbook from a pro who seems to turn them out with ease.

Starred review from October 1, 2018

With this latest release, Ottolenghi (Plenty; Jerusalem) offers a pared-down version of his signature Middle Eastern-inspired fare, with the explanation that "simple" means different things to different cooks. This volume highlights dishes that can be made in under half an hour, using ten ingredients or fewer, those that can be prepared ahead of time, and others that use mostly--or only--pantry staples. Working within these constraints forces the author to flex his creative muscles, and the results shine. Recipes are divided into chapters on brunch; raw vegetables; cooked vegetables; rice, grains, and pulses; noodles and pasta; meat; seafood; and dessert. There are also meals such as pea, za'atar, and feta fritters; soba noodles with lime, cardamom, and avocado; and fig and thyme clafoutis. A section at the end offers menu suggestions for events such as midweek suppers, weekend brunches, and feasts throughout the year. VERDICT Ottolenghi's many fans will want this book, but it will also appeal to home cooks looking for exciting, approachable recipes. An essential purchase.--Stephanie Klose, Library Journal

Copyright 2018 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.