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Unvarnished

A Gimlet-eyed Look at Life Behind the Bar

Audiobook (Includes supplementary content)
1 of 1 copy available
1 of 1 copy available

A Kitchen Confidential for the cocktail profession, Unvarnished is a fly-on-the-wall narrative peek at the joys, pains, and peculiarities of life "behind the stick."
When it opened a decade ago, the acclaimed Los Angeles speakeasy The Varnish—owned, designed, and managed by award-winning cocktail aficionado Eric Alperin—quickly became the stylish standard bearer for modern bars. Unvarnished is a candid, voice-driven, no-holds-barred look at the workings of a bar, and the foundation of The Varnish's success: attention to hospitality and an abiding belief in the nobility of service.

Alperin and veteran bartender and writer Deborah Stoll push back against the prevailing conceit that working in the service industry is something people do because they failed at another career. They offer fascinating meditations on ice as the bartender's flame; the good, the bad, and the sad parts of vice; one's duty to their community as a local; the obsessive, compulsive deliberations of building a bar (size matters); lessons from Sasha Petraske—Eric's late partner, mentor, and the forefather of the modern day classic cocktail renaissance—and the top ten reasons not to date a bartender. At the book's center are the 100 recipes a young Jedi bartender must know before their first shift at The Varnish, along with examples of building drinks by the round, how to Mr. Potato Head cocktails, and what questions to ask when crafting a Bartender's Choice.

A sexy, gritty, honest look at the glamour-less work of a glamorous job, written with the intimate honesty of The Tender Bar, the debauched inside view of Kitchen Confidential, and the social commentary of Waiter Rant, Unvarnished will take its place among these classics of the service set.

Supplemental enhancement PDF accompanies the audiobook.

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    • AudioFile Magazine
      Coauthor Eric Alperin narrates as he shares his path to, and the intricacies of, opening a bar in Los Angeles. Alperin's voice is dry and smooth, like one of the high-quality spirits served in his cocktail bar, The Varnish. While uneven sound quality may distract some listeners, even pacing keeps one interested as Alperin, who originally aspired to be an actor, shares tales from his adventures in entrepreneurship. The accompanying PDF allows listeners to hear the story without worrying about missing a particular cocktail recipe or trick of the trade. By the end, listeners will want to mix their favorite concoctions. A.L.S.M. © AudioFile 2020, Portland, Maine
    • Library Journal

      June 1, 2020

      What's it like to open a craft cocktail bar with one of the great originators of modern drinks service, Sasha Petraske, of Milk & Honey fame? Alperin has that opportunity when he partners with Petraske to open The Varnish in Los Angeles. This readable memoir follows this entrepreneurial endeavor as well as how Alperin came to bartending, while also describing the challenges and joys of working behind the bar. Alperin is not self-pitying, but aspiring bar owners will likely be daunted by the amount of work and forethought that goes into a successful hospitality venture. The book includes the 100-plus recipes that all staff at The Varnish are expected to know; home mixologists will glean several tips. Still, this volume is less about the mechanics of mixing drinks than about making an environment conducive for cocktails and socializing. VERDICT An enjoyable read for anyone interested in cocktail culture. Alongside Jim Meehan's Meehan's Bartender Guide, this will certainly be of use to professionals.--Devon Thomas, Chelsea, MI

      Copyright 2020 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

    • Kirkus

      Starred review from April 15, 2020
      The life of high-end bartending gets a thorough examination in this vivid memoir of setting up and running a Los Angeles establishment. Like many graduates of performing arts schools, Alperin had to get side jobs in New York to support his dream of becoming an actor. The more he worked, the more he realized that bartending, which has its own dramatic side, was his true calling. In this brash and insightful book co-written with screenwriter and journalist Stoll, Alperin traces his move to LA, where, with "barfly entrepreneur" Cedd Morris and the colorful "microdoser" Sasha Petraske ("central casting's wet dream of the nutty professor"), he opened The Varnish, a small bar dedicated to precise renderings of classic cocktails, the "kind of place someone would want to tell their friends about but also keep to themselves." This isn't the usual breezy or dutiful as-told-to memoir but rather a deep and meticulous dive into Alperin's personality and experiences. Consequently, sometimes the narrative is spectacularly and absorbingly dorky: If you haven't thought about the process of making ice or about those cubes or chunks we unthinkingly drop into our glasses, you will now. Just as often, the text zooms in on the minutiae of a night in the life of the bartender: "Bostick dry-shakes a Ramos gin fizz with short, hard strokes while I stir up a manhattan in a mixing glass, like spinning a spool of liquid silk, the rye's dark legs spiraling down the glass, lightening in color as it dilutes." Alperin doesn't hold back on the details of his personal life, revealing plenty about drugs and anonymous sex. The book also includes a substantial midsection with instructions on how to make enough familiar and exotic drinks to keep the home drinker occupied for a lifetime. Even teetotalers will relish the insights into this arcane world.

      COPYRIGHT(2020) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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